A Life Outside: American Mountain Guides
A Life Outside: American Mountain Guides
Special | 1h 26m 37sVideo has Closed Captions
Explore the high-stakes world of mountain guiding and the enduring legacy of pioneer Paul Petzoldt.
This 90-minute documentary explores the high-stakes world of mountain guiding. Weaving the legacy of pioneer Paul Petzoldt (founder of NOLS and Exum) with a modern climb gone wrong, the film follows elite guides in the rugged Tetons and Alps who face deadly risks every day, not for personal glory, but to get their clients back safely. Directed by Mat Hames.
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A Life Outside: American Mountain Guides is a local public television program presented by Wyoming PBS
A Life Outside: American Mountain Guides
A Life Outside: American Mountain Guides
Special | 1h 26m 37sVideo has Closed Captions
This 90-minute documentary explores the high-stakes world of mountain guiding. Weaving the legacy of pioneer Paul Petzoldt (founder of NOLS and Exum) with a modern climb gone wrong, the film follows elite guides in the rugged Tetons and Alps who face deadly risks every day, not for personal glory, but to get their clients back safely. Directed by Mat Hames.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Where to Watch A Life Outside: American Mountain Guides
A Life Outside: American Mountain Guides is available to stream on pbs.org and the PBS app.
Major funding for this program was provided by the Wyoming Cultural Trust Fund a program of the Department of State Parks and Cultural Resources.
And the Wyoming Publi Television Production Endowment.
And Think Wy.
Wyoming Humanities.
Inviting Wyoming to explore the ideas and stories that shape us.
And by the Wyoming Community Foundation connecting people who care with causes that matter.
Thank you.
Mountaineering is freedom.
You have to be quick at times.
You have to be sure.
You have to be confident.
All of that comes together.
You're an integrated being.
Your mind and your body are all in one place.
You get really strong and you get really connected to the world in a way that you don't when you're on pavement.
And the rest of the civilization falls away and you're like on the littlest boat with a bunch of people.
That's your expedition.
Whatever you're looking for, you can find in the mountains.
It's where I can push th envelope of what I am as a human in in all sorts of ways, physically, mentally.
It helps me define who I am.
And if you're a mountain guide you get to see peopl on the best day of their lives.
That part doesn't get old.
I think the fact that mountain people respect the mountains and listen to the clues that they're being given by the mountains is a very humble approach.
And without that, you get in trouble.
It's always safety first, right?
So you're, wanting them to have their moment.
But at the same time, in your brain you're going, okay, what's the weather like?
We were kind of slow, or what's the time frame?
You're assessing all those things.
What we do as mountain guides it does come with risk.
I mean, accidents can happen.
You can hit by rock avalanches, storms.
But there's always something that could be out there that either unforeseen or bad luck.
Then something could happen.
The element of risk in our profession is profound.
We live with it every day.
You need to think about it an you need to mitigate that risk to the best of your abilities.
Like you're doing something that is inherently dangerous.
That means you can die, right?
Do you understand that?
Do you still want to go?
Really?
And that's why mountain guides are so important.
They recognize that fact.
The objective is the parking lot, right?
And you're already in the parking lot, right?
And so we're just going to g to the most inconvenient place that we can fin to get back to the parking lot.
Every year more people flood the mountains and most make it home.
To understand why, you have to know what drives mountain people to guide strangers and bring them back alive.
Before ropes or belays or routes.
Someone had to find the way.
The mountain guide.
They risk everything to make other's adventures possible.
It began here.
Aristocrats paid locals to haul them up the Alps.
A century later, guiding spread across the oceans.
In the West they taught self-reliance.
They believed mountains aren't conquests.
They're classrooms.
And returning safely is the goal.
Americans from all walks of life found their way into the Yosemite's granite walls, the snowy reaches of the Cascades, the vastness of the Rockies.
A legacy of resilience defines mountain people.
What is the thread that connects them across generations?
For over 100 years, they've quietly taught the principles of expedition behavior pioneered here.
Because sometimes while in the mountains, when people are not seasoned mountaineers, when they don't have the experience, they put the whole team in danger.
And for me, no client is entitled enough to have me put my life in danger.
It's been a long tim since we did any rock climbing.
- It's true.
- Oh, wow.
Look, is that it?
There it is.
Yeah.
Oh, there's a plane flying.
Which one is it?
Is it the second one from the right?
The tall one?
Yeah.
I believe it's the tallest one.
Our clients, you know, they most of 'em they come here to climb the Grand Teton.
But they have very little experience.
And so we have a system where there are two days o training that they go through.
Because the one thin the guides can't do for you is actually do the physical climbing part of it.
I'm a little worried this is going to be the most difficult difficult hike I've ever done I think.
You're gonna do be great dad you've been training.
I started my training for the Grand about ten weeks ago.
I've been focusing on training with a pack.
I've got my pack.
I load it up with about 30 pounds.
I look for hills that, I'll hike up and down the side of.
Probably the most, beneficial has been at, at my gym.
I get on the stair climber.
I do get some interesting looks.
The risk on on the class five is is at a significantly higher level than anything we've done before.
- Morgan.
- Hi!
Okay.
- Hey there - You got Joe and Patrick.
- Hi Morgan.
- Nice to meet you.
This is Morgan McGlashon, she's going to be your guide today.
And I will leave you in Morgan's capable hands.
My name is Morgan McGlashon.
In the summer, I guide alpine climbing, and in the winter I guide backcountry skiing and ski mountaineering.
How many times have you climbed the Grand?
I don't keep track.
So I don't totally know, but more than 50, less than a 100.
Wow.
- Somewhere in that real - That's a lot, that's awesome.
I grew up skiing a lot.
My mom taught me to ski when I was two.
That was wha I did with all of my free time, and it gave me some structure, something to focus on.
And once I realized that you could mountain guide for a living, I decided I wanted to do that.
[indistinct chatter] Nice, hi.
This is Brenton.
Brenton, nice to meet you.
Patrick.
Nice to meet you.
Bob Forster Bob Hi I'm Liz Liz Hey, Patrick.
My name is Bob Forster.
I live in Steamboat Springs, Colorado.
Most of my career I spent working in Manhattan as much as I tried not to.
I'm happily retired and spen my time mostly in the outdoors.
Need anything right off the bat right now?
Do you feel pretty ready to go?
I'm ready.
Okay.
Brenton called me up and said, you know, why don't we go climb the Grand Teton this summer?
And why don't you bring Liz along with you?
My dad trusts Brenton with his life which is wha you have to do with the guide.
And so he's pretty quick to say, yeah, I'll do anything Brenton thinks I can do.
It felt like somethin that I should try to make work, given the opportunity to do it with my dad.
So for the Grand, are you mostly just hiking or what are you all doing for that?
Well, I' going to keep my normal regimen just of biking, mountain bikin three days a week and probably pushing some of my rides for higher elevation.
And then mix in some big hikes.
You know, to get that the muscle memory and maybe carr a heavier pack than I normally because just the extra weight is extra training and strengthening on my legs.
And then we, you know, we have a day of rock climbing with Brenton.
And I figure we'll sort of just, you know, figure that out in that day.
He'll get us prepared.
Yeah.
Today we're going to jump right into some bouldering to try some harder moves and do a lot of coaching.
We'll go from slab climbing to a lot steeper climbing.
Brenton Reagan is a guide and athlete.
He is an exuberant person.
So good.
Easy for you.
Nice.
That was killer.
Good job.
He's like a pied piper of skiing and climbing.
My mom brought m and my brother Spencer out here when we were about 14.
It was when I was 18 I went out with Alex Lowe.
He was an Exum mountain guide.
And we went and we climbed the Snaz.
And that was the day that I watched him do what he did.
And I was like, I totally know what I'm going to do.
Today, the goal is to work through a bunch of different skills that will build on themselves in hopes of setting you up for success for the climb.
I met Morgan for the first time, our first training day on the Grand.
I mean, my first thought was, how cool is it that another woman my age has gotten to this point where she can be guiding up the Grand.
You have to put your foot on a not so good spot and get it to stick by pushing straight into the wall.
Don't drop me, Patrick.
And sometimes you need someon like Morgan who's so good at it to tell you like no, you're meant to be here.
We all belong here.
What is special and unique about guiding, specifically in the Tetons, is that you can live here and be a mountain guide, but still, like, go home at night and have a family and be a part of a community.
I think a lot of people enjoy being here and guiding in the Tetons because you can, like, make it more of a day job.
There are a lot of guides that come just for the summer season but also guides that live here and work here year round and all together at times there's close to 70 of us, and it's like an incredibl group of people that have this common thread of spending their life in the mountains, and it's a really special community to be a part of.
Exactly.
There you go.
Nice.
Now we're actually getting into some rock climbing.
Get that toe on there.
Get it on there.
Brenton.
He's very direct in the way that he instructs you, which I think works very well for me and my dad because we are New York City suburb people who are also very direct.
Come on.
You got it And aim for the shark's tooth.
- There you go.
- Nice.
Nice!
No problem.
Just so you know, that's a pretty tough act to follow.
I mean, he'll kind of shout funny phrases while we're hiking or climbing.
Oh, man, you look too cool.
Oorah, Devil Dogs.
Good job, good job.
Yeah, shazam!
Those words of encouragement just also remind me, like, you should be having fun right now.
Bob, you look amazing.
You were born for this.
Latch on to it.
[Playful growl] There you go.
Nice.
The important thing here is t not let your son out climb you.
Boom.
Yes, sir.
It's the call button for the hot tub waiter.
Right there.
Bing.
Another margarita please.
Give me high five.
Good work.
Nice.
Cool, lunch.
You gotta get moving.
We're going to ride about, 12 miles, which will take us at least four hours to get there.
And then it'll take tim for them to go through the food.
Separate out what they need.
What they don't need.
It'll probably b a pretty long day on the trail.
Some people think an outfitter is a clothing retail store.
Something along those lines.
But what an outfitter is in the Rocky Mountain West and in the Canadian provinces, is somebody who takes novices or the public that hires them, into the wilderness.
That whole outdoor recreation industry is facilitated by outfitters and their hired guides.
In our case, we use pack horses and mules to carry the camping gear, our stuff, and peoples.
So that we ca take them into the backcountry.
Because where we go, there's no roads.
Where we're going, we will be riding onto the Popo Agie Wilderness.
So only a couple of miles into the ride we'll cross over onto the Popo Agie Wilderness boundary.
And as soon as we cross that boundary, you'll see that is the most protected land designation there is.
And so it's only accessible by foot or on horseback.
What are you guys doing?
Just sitting there waiting for us to do all the work?
Come on, all of you, come with me.
As I untie it I'll hand things off to you all.
And then you can bring it down to the lake.
We brought it.
You got to carry it the last little bit.
Um let's walk this all the way back to the back.
Get this off.
Go ahead and pull the front.
Awesome.
So let's go.
Yeah, let's go find some more that need unloaded.
Or maybe they're already unloaded.
We're all good.
That's good.
Thank you guys.
How have you guys liked it so far?
Well it's incredible.
What all have you done?
Backpacking like, 4 to 7 miles a day?
Yeah.
And then, yesterday was a rest day.
Yeah.
Done.
About 20, 21 miles total.
And it's like this every time.
Yeah.
It's pretty great.
I think they said there's like 600 pounds of gear we're getting, and food.
- Yeah.
Yeah.
- Cool.
It's a lot of stuff.
Yeah.
At the very, almost beginning of NOLS they started in 1965.
My student course was in 1968.
And so it's been and I've been doing this ever since, every summer.
And I was 15 years old when I went.
I knew that this is where I wanted to be.
And doing these kinds of things.
And so I was lucky enough to go.
And in those days, the founder of NOLs was the chief instructor, and he was ou course leader on every course.
And what you are learning would have never happened without Paul Petzoldt.
Paul Petzoldt is legendary American mountaineer.
In 1965, Paul Petzoldt founded the National Outdoor Leadership School in Lander, Wyoming, to teach young people self-reliance and an appreciation of wild places.
Each summer, Petzoldt lead his students hiking and camping through hundreds of rugged miles in the 13,000-foot Wind River Range.
The kids learn to read maps, catch fish, climb mountains, and live off the land.
They must survive as best they can.
Let's see what you do there.
All right.
Go back over.
So you're goin to have to lean over, lean over.
That's all right.
Hold on.
That's great.
I think in the early days, Paul's vision was that they would train instructors, teachers who would then work at places like guide services.
He thought he was, you know, training the the teachers of others.
Keep your feet so that your feet will not slip downward.
You see?
Young people need adventure, and this is a happy way to get it.
Oh, my God, the bugs in here are insane.
Don't eat 'em.
Oh, we put on harnesses?
So the first thing I like to do when I put on a harness, is I like make sure it's all untwisted and everything is oriented.
I'm from Brooklyn, New York.
Why does somebody, like, fro Brooklyn go into the mountains?
Because I don't hav a lot of mountains in Brooklyn.
Got a couple hills and a couple parks, but, not a lot of this.
-No - No, no, I think you're good.
No, no, I missed the leg.
Act like you've been there before.
There's not much left, so, there you go.
Oh my God.
You got it, I believe in you.
Great.
Yeah, that's it.
Bada bing, bada.
Nice.
First try.
Paul thought young people were just wonderful but he said they do need some adventure.
And they're going to get adventure one way or another whether the old folks like it or not.
So this is a good way of getting it maybe a lot maybe it's even better than LSD, or marijuana, or hot rods.
Paul Petzoldt did not grow up in privilege.
Almost all the climbers from the era he lived in did grow up in privilege.
Paul said he was his life as a child was poverty with a view.
Guides would appear on Mount Rainier and in the Sierras and elsewhere.
But modern guiding really begins in the United States with Paul Petzoldt.
In 1924, when he's still a teenager.
This kid came out to Idaho and I got acquainted with him, he says I got some relatives up in Jackson Hole.
I'm going up, Jackson Hole.
Do you want to go with me?
So we started to hitchhike up there, and we come around the corner Idaho Falls and there was the Tetons out there.
I don't know who said it first, let's climb the Grand Teton.
Okay, let's climb it.
We did it!
Yes!
It was harder than, harder than I thought.
I had a hard time getting off the ground.
Just the first, the first five feet I couldn't get off the ground.
It's just the I don't know the anxiet or fear, I guess, of, you know, hanging on the rock, you know.
The transition from, like, the flat ground to the climbing is like the hardest, right?
Once you complete the transition and you're vertical, then it all starts to flow again.
They got to town and started asking about climbing the Grand Teton and wor got out to Billy Owen, who had the first recorded ascen of the Grand, which is in 1898.
So Billy is entranced by them, and he takes them aside, and he tells them how he got up the Grand.
But the mountain was right there and the east ridge was right up there, and it looks so easy.
So we didn't go Owen's way.
We just zoom right up there.
And up we went.
Then the wind started to howl and I mean howl.
And then it started to snow.
And that was the longest night in all history.
Now they're sure they're going to die.
They had already been worried throughout the night, but now they're thinking this might really be it.
So they shivered, waited out the night.
Not sure if they would make it.
And then the miracle happened.
The only reason I'm here today is that Wyoming weather changes very rapidly.
We weren't going to go back to Jackson to have those cowboys laugh at us.
And so they decided to go ahead and maybe take Billy Owens advice and go over and climb the route that he had told them about, which is what they did.
And believe it or not, made it to the top.
Paul told this story a hundred times and the tale got taller.
Cowboy boots?
Maybe.
Maybe not.
But let's be honest, whatever he wore, it wouldn't be recommended by any climbing manual.
And he didn't have one.
They come out of the bank and the hardware store.
They even stopped the poker game in the local saloon.
Everybody in town came out.
And there was a great degree of skepticism until Billy Owen came out and asked them for the details of the route.
We told him how we'd gotten to the top, and how we had crawled across the crawl, and how we had found his pendan that he'd left up there at 1898.
He finally turned dramatically to the crowd and said, these young men have been t the very top of the Grand Teton.
Word got around.
These kids had gotten up the mountain.
The dudes thought, gosh if these kids can get up there, maybe we could get up there.
They said, would you show us a way up?
And I said, sure.
They said, when can we start?
I said, how about tomorrow?
Four days later, I was back stacking hay with the summer wages in my pocket.
I had a future.
I had a racket.
I was a guide.
Mountain guiding began here in this valley.
In Europe, there's such a deep history o alpinism and mountain guiding.
It goes back thousands of years.
There's guides who are guide of guides and guides and guides.
You know, i goes back into the grandparents.
There's cemeteries.
There's a lot of national pride.
Culturally, it's a super respected job.
You have to pass a difficult examination in France, you know, to be, certificate as a guide.
You need, it take a long time.
We have the highest level of education about that here.
Through the Middle Ages and into the early modern period Mont Blanc, the White Mountain was originally known as Mont Maudit or the Cursed Mountain.
Mountains were thought of as places where there were dragons, or there were witches, or there were evil spirits.
The people who were assured that spending a night, on a glacier, you would not survive because dragons and the monsters living in the in the mountains.
The first guides, were, let's say kind of adventerous guys you had guys, saying I'm a guide I can take you here I'm a guide, I can take you there.
Some were getting lost.
Some were a bit drunk.
Nothing is structured.
So there's absolutely complete anarchy.
There's complaints from tourists They start like that.
Until a very big disaster.
So in 1820, a caravan of, 15 people with a very wealthy man, two clients with 15 guides, and they put a huge pressur over the shoulder of the guide to say, I want to reach a summit.
And the guide said, no, no, it' very risky to go to the summit.
They push, they push, and then an avalanche happen and three guides died.
So the government say, okay, w would change the organization.
We don't want to have everybody as a guide.
We'll organize that with a company, with some rules.
The decision will be made by th guides and not by the clients.
What do you think about start time?
Like 9:30 to 10?
Okay, I could do like 9:30 and then that gets my kids ready.
Me and my wife, Jessica Baker, we live in Jackson, Wyoming, and we both work as full time mountain guides and professional athletes.
I competed on the free skiing circuit from 2000 to 2008.
When I finally decided to have kids and Brenton and I, my husband and I are both guides.
It was sort of a massive discussion of whether or not we could actually even pull it off, and we really had to think about about the logistics of what that meant and if we could keep guiding during that time.
The challenges of having two professional guides, being parents, is the scheduling.
So you have to coordinate with your spouse like you're like, okay, so if you're going to do training today and you know, you can start it, you know, 9:00 a.m.
okay, you're going to drop the kids off I'm starting at 2 a.m., but I should be done by 3 p.m., so I should be able to pick up the kids by 5 p.m.
I see why people didn't do it before.
Mountain guiding is, you know, a tough way to go if you want to have a family and a house and... But it's way better than when I started, because when I started guiding and I can remember getting paid, you know, for guiding, you know, something like Mount Baker, 35 bucks.
- Cheers - Three, two, one.
[Loud crunching] - Mmm!
- [laughs] Well, I come back from that climb on the Grand Teton.
A different kind of person.
I knew I didn't know nothing [laughs] and uh so, I started to read, and then I started to get climbers from Boston, and other people who had climbed in Switzerland, and people from the American Alpine Club and I milked them for all the knowledge that they could give.
In 1934, Paul did go to Europe and then headed off to the Alps to climb the Matterhorn and was I think quite surprised by how the guides operated over there.
It seemed to him that they wanted to just hustle people up to the top and then rush them dow so they could get back to town and find some more clients for the next day.
And they seem to do everything for them.
They, you know, tied all their knots and took care of all the rope work.
And it felt to him like they were just draggin people up and down the mountain.
Petzoldt wanted the people he guided to to learn how to do this on their own He was an innovator.
By the time that I was 18, I had developed the mountaineering signals, the first in the world.
Developing, you know, the language of on belay and belay on.
Climbing and then your answer is, climb Up rope, slack.
Because he could see whe he first took these people out, you couldn't jus keep yelling at 'em what to do.
You had to have very simple signals.
So he was thinking about the future of mountaineering.
He didn't have any sort of formal education.
American mountaineering was very much an enclave of the elite.
He was asked to be part o the American expedition to K2.
He was proposed and accepte as a member, with some concern.
Would he fit in?
Not whether he was a good climber or not, but would he fit in socially?
Would he be disruptive?
I'd read all about the English climbs there and it was a nationalist thing a competition.
But they never tackled K2 because it was considered the unclimbable mountain, so they couldn't climb the easier ones so why should they try to time the toughest?
And he and Charlie Houston get up to 26,000 feet.
They had found a route which became the standard route, up K2 if you can describ a mountainous treacherous as K2 as having a standard route.
Petzoldt decided not to return to the United States immediately following, the 1938 K2 expedition instead he stayed in India, and he had a kind of questing spiritual side which led him to the company of a Dr.
Johnson who was an American livin in India who was a devotee of a of a kind of religious, mystical guru.
And a very murky episode follows in which there's increasing tension which ends in Petzoldt running out of the Johnson's home and inadvertently bumping into Dr.
Johnson who fell hit his head and died.
At the trial, it emerged that Mrs.
Johnson had threatened, Paul with a shotgun.
And at that point, the prosecution's case, fell apart.
But, this was not in the style of the American Alpine Club.
It's hard to imagine Charlie Houston finding himself in similar circumstances.
If Paul had been born in the 17th century, he would have been an explorer.
But he probably would have been an explorer slash pirate.
He was, he was a kind of a hustler.
He, was looking for a a path in life.
And his path took him to mountain summits, getting paid to do so.
He was, a legendary character, but he was first and foremost a character.
We are at the Lupine Meadows Trailhead getting ready to start hiking up to the saddle below the Grand Teton.
Thanks, everybody, for your patience.
I was trying to register my kids for some art classes and that was like a 10 a.m.
on the dot registration opens.
And Jess, she went with her client early this morning to go to the practice rock so she can be done early to make sure that the kids aren't home from camp for too long by themselves.
All right, everybody ready?
Yeah, buddy.
- I'll bring up the rear still.
- Let's roll.
Today we are hiking to the lower saddle between the middle and the Grand Teton which is where our high camp is It's about 5,000 vertical feet from here to there, hiking through the forest an then through some switchbacks, through a bunch of boulders and sort of steep hiking.
Until eventually we'll get to the fixed line, which is right below the Lower Saddle.
The hardest part of the Grand for most people is that it's almost 7000 ft of elevation gain from the trailhead to the summit.
It's just a lot on your quads and on your joints, and that tends to like be the hardest part for us too.
It's really hard, but my legs can be tired on Friday after I finish this climb.
We want to see that people have the fitness in order to continue beyond the saddle.
Right now we're at the 1.8 mile marker, what we call the horse spring.
This is a pretty classic spot for us to stop and take our first break.
So yeah everyone seems to be doing good.
It's early though.
♪ Jump into the skiers bed ♪ ♪ to keep the skier warm ♪ ♪ Singin' a ninety pounds of rucksack ♪ ♪ A pound of grub or two ♪ ♪ He'll schuss the mountain ♪ ♪ Like his daddy used to do ♪ When the war started, Paul applie for the 10th Mountain Division but actually was denied, which is very strange given that he had obviously wa more mountaineering experience.
But I came to my assignment.
They said, where do you want to go?
And I said, I wanted to g to the 10th Mountain Division.
And they said, oh, that's the only with people with experience.
Well, I said, I've had some experience.
They said, they all say that.
Two days later I was on the train to the ski troops.
This, officer came through and he looked at me and he said, are you Paul Petzoldt?
I said, yeah, I'm Paul Petzoldt.
he said, you're going to work out our message for not evacuation.
So that's what I did.
The 10th Mountain Division was the US Army's climbers and skiers trained specifically to take on the Axis powers and Hitler and the Nazis.
What we know now about being in nature is that it heals.
They had PTSD.
They didn't call it that.
They called it shell shock.
But when they got back, their real grace occurred, when they fan back out into the mountains, they'd come to love.
And I believe they did so to heal.
But they went on to found more than 60 ski areas around the country.
And then what Paul decided to do is teach people how to climb.
And he began something called the National Outdoor Leadership School.
So we went into the winds, just as Paul described it, with glaciers, lakes, and streams, mountains learning about the environment, the skills that you needed to do it wisely and safely.
And it was revolutionary, really, for me.
I had helped train and develop the guides who are the best mountaineers in the world.
Paul started the climbing guiding business in the Tetons.
It was in his name.
Later he brought in Glenn Exum.
Later he brought in Glenn Exum.
Glenn Exum got into the business of guiding with Paul.
of course.
It's a pretty good way to make a living.
I mean, Paul was a bit of a roughneck and cowboy, and Glenn certainly had a totally different and decent background as an accomplished musician.
They had a great friendship.
So it was, Paul's school, but I think very quickly when having a partner and, splitting the obligations made sense to him.
So I think pretty quickly they were equals with the business.
And the charge was $10 a day and the guides got half of that.
What made a good guide back in the early days, as far as Glenn Exum was concerned, was to bring them back alive.
Is this our stopping point?
This is where we're goin to sit down and take a load off.
Find some shade, drink some water, eat a snack.
How you feeling so far, Joe?
Little winded right now I'm glad we stopped for water.
Struggling a little bit with the breathing.
But luckily no headache, so I think I'll be okay.
[ Heavy breathing ] Something like the Grand Teton.
We're all going to be pushed past our comfort zones a little bit, because this is our first time doing it.
I was born in southern Connecticut, and my earliest memories of adventure are right in the place where I lived.
There's four of us.
There's my dad, my mom, and my brother Stephen.
We sort of always believed we were active people, and we wanted to expose our kids to as much as possible.
The kids had to ski.
Fortunately they enjoyed it and took to it.
They grew up skiing out west and skiing in the mountains.
Those are also some of my really important childhood memories is skiing as a family.
My dad and my brother definitely had, I would say, the most extreme outdoor experience where, they both mountain biked, they both whitewater kayaked.
Selfishly, I used to kind of say, I can do anything I want as long as I can bring Steve along with me.
So he started mountain biking with me.
With Steve, it organically turned into kayaking.
I think I first took him whitewater kayaking at the age of eight, and he just couldn't get enough of it.
And he was extremely passionate about it and he became very skilled at it.
Stephen was running a river in Idaho at a really, really high level and drowned.
[softly crying] So, Steven died in 2011, in a wilderness accident.
He was 19 at the time.
Steve loved the outdoors.
He loved the kayaking adventure.
He loved the challenge of big water.
And this particular river i one of the most challenging ones in the US.
And it was at very high water.
And it's something within his skill set.
But something happened and we don't know.
A lot of the outdoors trips that we've done, I think, have been an integral part of the grieving process.
Going to outdoor spaces where I think we feel like there is a sense of something greater than us.
I think also part of grieving is us becoming closer, just as a reminder of like life can slip away really, really fast.
My feeling is that he would want us to continue to live and we love these adventures.
And we feel very close to him when we do it.
You know, it's somethin that you really can't explain, but you feel his energy and I feel it mor when I'm out in the wilderness.
I'm out in the mountains.
I had been turned down for a wrangling job at a dude ranch in Dubois because I was only 15.
I went over to Paul's house and asked hi if I could go on a NOLs course, and in those days, a 30 day course cost $300.
And so Paul said, well, sure, you can go.
How about $100?
You pay me $100, you can go on a NOLS course, so I did.
Where are you guys all from?
I'm from New York City.
I'm from Seattle, Washington.
I'm from Santa Barbara, California.
I'm from Guilford, Connecticut.
I'm from Charlotte, North Carolina.
Fort Collins, Colorado.
Portland, Oregon.
I grew up in the Midwest.
I went to high school in Joliet, Illinois.
Then I went to college in South Bend, Indiana.
I was headed to the to the button down shirt thing, for sure.
I had visions of getting into the outdoors from Oklahoma, of all places.
I grew up mostly in New England, so I came after my graduation from high school took a Wind River mountaineering course.
I wanted a new adventure in my life, a new place in my life.
I wanted to leave where I was and, go somewhere new.
And there it was.
Then I found a catalog and I sort of salivated over doing that trip was 475 bucks, but yeah, I was like, I'm going to do this.
And so I went out for a month, and Paul was the chief instructor.
And so he taught pretty much all of the classes.
And then Rob Hellyer was the number two guy.
Rob Hellyer.
He's one of our great instructors.
I don't know how I'd get along without him.
In that film, Rob is in it he's doing some climbing instruction.
I am?
- Mhm, don't you remember?
- I don't, no.
I do.
I remember your exact words.
Now would I let him repel down in this shirt.
- No - I should say not Be nothing but hamburger at the bottom.
Okay.
Everybody had a title I suppose.
But I was his helper.
It was a full time job, a good job.
The horses arrived tonight and the food is there.
And tomorrow mornin we will, divvy up the rations.
Are you the dinner guy?
I, well we're all cooking.
We are the dinner guys.
You're looking at the chefs of the night.
Yeah you're looking at the chefs.
Some Michelin star stuff you're about to witness.
Uh, you know, we have a lot of pasta, so I'm thinking about doing something with pasta.
Dude, I'm just going to whip up the best thing you've ever tasted.
You would get a week or two worth of food, and it would be, all these plastic bags of white powders that couldn't even tell what they were.
Then we had to learn how to make food with them.
We could make all sorts of wonderful things - Bro we got so much flour.
- Oh!
Yo, I just spilled oil all over my hands.
We have some people that are very, confident.
Inexperienced and very confident and they're making things that are edible.
No, smell my hand.
Smell.
It smells like that.
I know.
We hav cooking groups, and every night we alternate who cooks, an we're the ones cooking tonight.
And we're cooking for four people each.
Whose dinner are you going to eat?
I'm eating Wyatt's dinner up there.
You trust Wyatt?
No.
No, not at all.
Mac, what the hell?
- Yo!
My hands!
Smell crazy right now.
-Where's my knife?
I really hope I have my knife.
Yeah after the second or third day, you stop caring.
Yeah, just eat whatever comes in your bowl.
Yeah.
You know, if you need to eat, you need to do something.
I feel so good when I see a young person coming in not knowing anything.
And by the end of one month they're making cinnamon rolls.
They're baking their own bread.
They are dependent on themselves through the skills, that they have learned What did Paul think abou gender roles in the mountains?
He thought that girls belonged in the mountains.
This is when I was a student, this one.
And we had a couple horses to help us carry our stuff for the girls.
Paul was, giving lectures around and promoting the school.
He had a slideshow, and afterwards I went up to speak to him and I said, I really look lik something I'd really like to do.
But I said I didn't see an girls on your on your courses.
And he just said, I don't know, why not?
Do you want to come?
And I said, yes.
And that was it.
Martha Hellyer was an inspiration.
I think still is.
She's a tough cookie, hard working lady.
I was the horse packer.
Yeah then when we were with the courses, then I would help with instructing.
Martha Hellyer was a wonderful instructor.
She was even backpacking eight and a half months pregnant.
Women are definitely as tough as men in the outdoors.
Definitely.
I was a guide, an instructor on their expeditions from 75, 1975 through, about 79.
I was, hired as the first woman guide for Exum.
In the 60s, girls, what did we do?
We could be nurses or teachers.
We couldn't be mountaineers.
And we didn't do outdoor stuff.
We didn't even do sports practically.
We could be cheerleaders.
Someone in the office would come out and introduce you.
Right?
And so a couple times, people would go, wait, she's our guide?
[Laughing] Well, you're too small.
You're too this.
Or, wait.
I thought we were getting a guy.
Um, but then it was always like, well, you know, let's let's go climbing and see what happens before we make too much of a judgment.
And then we would go bouldering or go climbing, and then they knew who the boss was.
We were tough and it didn't really matter, man or woman.
Just you had the grit.
You know, anybod that wanted to go if you showed, if they were shown how to do it safely and with some skills, they could go.
You didn't have to be a expert expert to go.
[heavy breathing] [heavy breathing continues] Um, I think we got kind of an issue.
I know, I think he just overestimated himself.
Yeah, we can see how the rest of this goes, but this is pretty low and it's already.
It's, yeah, totally.
Yeah.
Yeah, I feel the same way.
Unless something changes, we have an issue.
Yeah.
Look, any time you enter a vertical world, It just magnifies the consequences of anything that might happen.
If you're walking down the sidewalk and turn your ankle and fall over, you fall down on the sidewalk.
If you do that in the mountains, you fall off a cliff and fall a long ways.
The consequences are just that many times more magnified.
How you doing?
It's challenging.
I was actually right behind Brenton and he was hiking extremely, extremely slow.
Slower than I expected to, and he was working on keeping the group together.
How are you feeling, Joe?
I can't quite keep up y'all's pace Hey, Joe.
How are you guys doing?
Pretty tired.
I need some water and some food.
All right.
You guys want to have lunch here or lunch in 30 or 40 minutes?
Here.
Copy, sandwich, belly.
Let's go.
We are currently in Garnet Canyon Meadows.
It's raining, but also sunny.
A good Alpine weather day.
Most of the crew is doing pretty good.
We have one person who's seeming a little bit fatigued, which is fine, but it gives us an indication of how things can play out for tomorrow, and we're just trying to best assess how to handle that.
All right.
Next section's steep.
But at least it's uphill.
Here is Lander.
Lander is a wonderful place.
But it was Lander in the late 60s or the early 70s.
And there are riots in the big cities and strangers were coming into town.
We were not appreciated at at all.
The NOLS course that I did in June of 65 was the first one.
- That was '65, you said?
- '65.
Yeah.
June of 65 was the first course.
I hear people talk because I'm a local.
I was I grew up here and I would hear him talk about that doggone Paul Petzoldt and this riff raff hippie bunch of people that he' bringing in these young people, and they're just going to change our culture and our society and everything else.
And they were just kids tha wanted to go into the mountains and have an experience.
Out here there's danger.
I don't think that the young people are fleeing from anything.
Boy, I think they're facing reality I think our generation's living in the dream world.
So were you one of the hippies?
I hope so.
[laughs] What did everyone think of the hippies around here?
Hated 'em.
They just got hate, blankety-blank hippies.
[laughs] You know, there were guys with earrings and long hair and things that a ranchin community is not used to having.
Paul didn't care if you're pink or purple or boy or girl or any he just didn't care because he realized they're humans.
The conservatives didn't want him.
The liberals didn't want him.
I don't know where he would have fit.
Paul was an equalizer.
In being in the mountains, things like politics really don't matter.
He'd pick up a hitchhiker, and by the time he got to Lander, he'd come in and say, Rob, send this kid down a course he's ready to go.
He wants to go, so.
It's kind of primo for alpine hiking, isn't it?
We're how high?
We are about 9,500 feet.
We're getting close to 10,000 feet.
These are going to be really slippery.
So make sure you step in areas that have really good looking perches.
Nice big deliberate spots for your feet.
Same in here.
These can be kind of loose in here too.
So watch your footwork in here.
Careful, careful.
All right the perch.
Yeah.
What a spot, huh?
Look at this spot.
Petzoldt's Perch!
That's what this is?
Yeah.
Yeah.
Right on top of Spalding Falls.
Second lunch everybody.
It's been a good day.
It's cooling off with the rain.
We're here at the top of the Spalding waterfall.
Sitting on Petzoldt's Perch.
You know also just being outside with my dad.
I, feel really lucky that we get to do this together.
I mean, it's it's our favorite thing to do, being outside away from away from all the stresses of modern day life.
What more could I ask for?
So I think this is this is a great thing to get people like that out in the real outdoors.
You see the real person, they're exposed, they're exposed under danger.
They're exposed to everything.
Lots of times.
That's the only tim you ever see their real person.
And that's why it's so wonderful to get people in the outdoors under a real environment.
And you can help develop that real person a little bit better.
- Ready?
- Yeah.
Or do you want to rest?
Whatever you want.
I'm flexible.
I haven't exerted any energy today.
Oh, okay.
Well, how are you feeling?
Not as good.
Why?
Time of day.
If we started at 5 a.m., I could've hiked a lot faster.
Well, that's good for tomorrow.
Yeah.
Yeah, right now we're putting on our helmets and our harnesses, and then we're going to walk the last little bit of this loose terrain u to the base of the fixed rope.
And then we'll get the rope out, do a little belaying up through the fixed rope, and then we'll be like 15 minutes from the hut.
You got it?
Yes.
- Nice work.
- Nice.
The air seems to be getting thinner up here.
A lot thinner.
Yeah, boys.
And then right up there, yo can start to grab that big rope and you want to go hard left.
Take the rope with you around the corner and head for the orange rope.
Yep.
Great work.
There you go.
That was awesome.
Fun, the fun has started more of this tomorrow.
Just mind your P's and Q' right here as you step around.
Good foot there.
Step down.
Are we there yet?
Oh, my God, here we are.
Just let everybody relax and eat some food and be chill for a little bit.
And then we're going to have a big meeting later.
Morgan and I are going to go over what tomorrow is going to entail.
Compared to tomorrow, today is like as easy as it gets.
Tomorrow is a good bit harder.
So we do rely a little bit on self-selection.
He was very adamant about pace and that it was going to be a really long day, and we needed to maintain a certain pac to keep the day under 12 hours.
The only place that I can send somebody back to the hut by themselves is from before the Black Dike.
If anybody feels crappy about the Black Dike, then we all have to turn around.
Yes, sir.
Can we increase the margin by starting earlier?
We can't start that much earlier because then we do too much in the dark.
And then you're climbing technical terrain in the headlamp.
You cannot climb the Golden Staircase in the dark.
And it also doesn't change how long our overall day is.
We want to be through all the technical terrain within 12 hours, and so it doesn't matter if we start earlier or later that time frame doesn't really change, but just know that the mountain environment is just something that like is fierce and we are managing risk.
And the Grand Teton does not give a [bleep] about you.
- Sound fair?
- Yeah Cool.
You know, the way he he kept describing, he said, you know, that hike up should have been easy and it's nothing compared t what we're going to do tomorrow.
And it didn't feel that easy for me.
Well, today we did seven miles in seven hours, which is actually about normal for me.
I often found myself, bringing up the rear, I'm more than twice the age of most of the folks in the group and, found it, somewhat difficult to keep up with their pace.
Seems, like we're challenge to make some times that we set.
Being on time helps facilitate all those things.
It's also good, like, expedition behavior.
Right?
To, like respect all the people out here that actually want to do those things.
We believe that Paul Petzoldt coined the phrase expedition behavior.
I think expedition behavior is probably the most important thing I learned.
It's about working together with people, being conscious of their needs as well as your own.
You have to put a lot of trust in people you don't know.
Haven't met any of these people before going on this trip.
And I'm putting trust in them that I wouldn't with people I know well.
I think communication is and honesty is like the two top things for expedition behavior.
The lessons of expedition behavior and all this kind of stuff they're is relevant today as they ever were.
I think Paul's teachings are timeless.
Where's everyone going?
I don't know, we're having a really tough problem with one of our guys.
And I tried to ge on the self-select a little bit with my speech an then even like a private talk.
But it hasn't happened yet.
And he's putting, like, everything at risk, like the whole trip.
I think it's completely fine to tell him that.
That's the hardest part of your job as a guide is telling someone they can't go.
Can we get you two up on the, helipad for a little bit?
Come up with the plan, talk about tomorro a little bit with me and Morgan.
Yeah.
Cool, sweet.
We just had our big guide meeting.
After talking with the rest of the guides.
There's a lot of concerns about this speed for tomorrow and it's highly unlikely we're going to be able to go to the Exum Ridge.
If you go because we don't have the speed in the tank.
I think our ideal situation is that you stay here and we take you and Bob and Liz to the ridge.
Because anything else might not put anybody on the ridge and it might not put anybody on the summit.
There are some clients that could probably make it, but it would be such a long, hard trip that it wouldn't be safe.
And it wouldn't be fair to ask our guides to do that.
How we evaluate people and how they move through terrain is like what mountain guides do, When we know you're working as hard as you are working.
I can tell by the breathing.
I was pissed off today and I started hiking to 11 I hike better in the morning.
Yeah, I was managing family stuff.
I understand that, that's fine I wish you told us that yesterday we could slept another hour this morning.
So like I understand that you're frustrated with that process.
There's things that come into all our families and lives that, misdirecte where I was going this morning, in a sense.
Yeah.
I honestly had to register my kids for art classes, And I get that.
I just wis you had told us that yesterday.
So, yeah, I can understand where your frustrations come from, so know that it's a heartfelt conversation we're having, and it does hurt my heart to have the conversation.
And it's not something I enjoy doing.
Well, I think, you know, if they're a good guide, they, they listen, be empathetic, but, you know, be firm in their belief.
The bottom line is you're the risk manager and you got to get them back in good health.
I made, made the call to, just hang out here at the base camp and, get some extra rest and let the, let the younger folks go up.
How do you feel, Patrick?
Sad.
I get super invested in coming up here with people and getting them up the Grand Teton It's not a ro- It's not a robotic motion for us.
And Morgan also, doing this, we've become quite invested in the emotional stat and the space and and the people becaus we spend a lot of time together.
So it becomes quite hard.
You know, oftentimes there's a path forward also, like you can't go now, but if this is really important to you we can give you a path forward.
And we've done that with several people that when they first showed up it wasn't happening a few years later, it was happening.
We leave early one to beat the weather.
So obviously we'd like to be on the summit and off the summit by, I'd say noon.
We got up, I think 3:30 that morning.
Had breakfast.
We use to say on by noon, off by two.
And that's born out of the concern for, li- thunder and lightning.
But it's also born out of the fact that if something goes wrong, you want more time to fix it.
You know every fiber of a mountain guides being is about getting ahead of the potential problems.
All right, you ready there?
[indistinct chatter] Game on.
We started at 4 a.m.
with headlamps walking up to the Black Dike.
And the group was the two guides, Brenton and Morgan.
Liz and myself and Patrick.
From the yurt to the black rocks, my heart was pounding out of my chest.
I was breathing really heavily and shallowly.
I had a moment where I was like, is this what everyone's feeling like?
Or is this, like, not safe for me?
Can I push through this or do I need to stop?
Brenton set a very fast pace up the first part up to the Black Dike.
And I felt extremely out of breath.
I was falling behind and I didn't feel good.
I've never felt that way before.
I've pushed myself.
I've been tired, but my leg just felt really, really weak.
The camera was not on me at that point.
I was pretty much by myself dragging behind the group, and I, I called them back to me.
What's up?
I think I'm done.
You don't feel good?
No.
My legs are so smoked and wobbly.
Okay.
I just fee if I feel like this right now.
Okay.
I shouldn't go on.
Okay.
There's not much arguing I can do with you.
No, I just.
I don't feel comfortable.
It's not the speech.
I didn't overdo it with the speech?
- No, no, it's really not.
- Okay.
You can blame the speech.
I'm struggling too much on this.
Okay.
All right.
That's fine.
I felt really sad when he said he was going to turn around.
And also felt an immense amount of respect for him because I know that wasn' a decision that he made lightly.
It wouldn't have been safe for the group.
It probably would have jeopardized the whole group's ability to summit, because I didn't feel like it' something I could push through.
- Bye.
- Okay.
Hey, Bob, I love you.
- Yeah.
- I'll see you later.
You guys have fun.
- Okay.
- Bye, Bob.
Bye, Dad, love you.
And I said good bye to Liz.
You know, I told her to go crush it.
Have a great summit, and I'll be waiting for you down at the saddle.
And truly, that, I think, is like the ultimate test in the mountains is not just whether you can reach the summit, but whether you can back off when whether it's the weather or yourself.
It's just not your day.
Oh I guess it's up to the kids.
Up to the kids!
Kid party.
Woo-hoo!
No parents, no rules!
[laughing] Yeah, whoop whoop.
Good work!
On to the next section.
The next few hundred feet, the rock is straight up garbage.
There's just no way around it.
I mean, just straight up garbage.
Yeah.
Feel free to slow it down a touch if you need to.
Yeah nice quiet feet.
Oops, see, sorry.
One way to become very present is to have consequence at hand, and it just brings you focus like you never have seen or perceived before.
You're literally focusing on like the next step, the next rope position, the place you're going to put your client, the overhead hazard that's directly in front of you, the weather that's coming in like it's just really focused and keen on like every little detail that's happening around you in that moment.
Climb!
And I think without risk, you just don't get that same heightened need.
Go ahead and just hang tight until the rope comes tight.
And then you can climb.
All right, Patrick, bring it.
That's me, BR.
Climb Patrick!
Climbing!
This is how you climb the ridge.
Like this.
You got to move like this, once you're on it, all you feel is this sense of urgency to be off of it.
We're about to go up here on what we call Carmen's Pinnacle.
So that's Carmen's Pinnacle That's a pretty rarely done, extra pitch on the route.
The route climbs, comes a little bit here, but when you're kind of going fast and you have a little bit of extra time, then you can pop up there for like, a little bit of a bonus.
How does that make you feel as guide?
Great.
But then cautious because the universe is watching.
I've never actually climbed Carmen's Pinnacle, so.
Oh no way!
This will be great.
Woo!
Yeah, bring it.
Yeah.
Climb Liz!
In the outdoors, where I'm in scary situations because the exposure or some type of like facto that is heightening my anxiety.
There have been times that I've felt the presence of my brother Stephen around me.
For me, it's usually feels like there's a hand holding mine, which feels very like a securing feeling for me.
A raven flew over as I was climbing up one of the the bonus side pitches that we did.
Brenton and Morgan and also some of the other Exum guides who were up there at the same time had told us that ravens symbolize, the people that we've lost and are sort of an embodiment of them.
And I felt, again, that, like, sense of deep protection.
And when you know, my original protector, my dad is not there, you know, something else was sent there to to protect and to signal, like, she's okay.
Brace your feet so you kind of come over and if you do come over, keep on your feet, right?
Straighten up your knees.
Keep on your feet.
Keep on your feet.
That a boy.
Youth demands adventure.
They're going to get it.
Either you know, maybe on the street or maybe on the mountains.
- They need to be challenged?
- Of course.
Yeah.
The thing about Paul, he cared about the youth of America he wanted them to grow to have confidence and then once you have accomplished this, or whatever you've gotten out of your trip.
You don't have to go on a trip to feel this confidence you've got, it's there, you've done it.
If I could do something like this for three weeks in the middle of nowhere, I can get through whatever is going on at home.
The whole philosoph that I've tried to bring forward in this school is the fact that this is the time, not for lecturing.
This is this is a vacation from lecturing.
Gosh, people get too much verbosity.
They get told too much what to do and what to think and they don't get a chance to do things for themselves.
They're preached to every day how they should think.
Out here, I think it's a good opportunity for them to just sit and relax and and view their whole, everything that they've heard all their life and maybe get an idea of their own we hope that they'll discover themselves.
I think it's important for young people to go in the mountains today and for every generation.
Because the mountains serve to make you a whole person.
Your experiences of the beauty, your experiences of the depth of nature, of the soul of the out-of-doors makes you a whole person.
And you start thinking about the world differently.
It's metaphysical, I suppose, but it's very physical.
I mean, it's so inspirin when you're there in the moment that, I don't feel much fatigue when I'm guiding it.
Ready to roll.
What's this one called?
Friction Pitch.
This is it right here.
Climb Patrick!
Nice and smooth.
Be deliberate.
Yeah, buddy.
I mean it's kinda stupid cool, isn't it?
We are currently at the top of the Friction Pitch.
The money pitch of the Exum Ridge.
Your body is trying to tell you you will die if you do this move.
And because we're not meant to be off the ground.
Just know every great Teton climber has used all the same holds right there.
Shaking hands with the legends.
Come on up.
Come on, come on, come on, come on.
Quick feet, quick feet.
Okay, catch a couple breaths.
We're going to go to the dark side.
- You good?
Feel good?
- Yup.
Cool.
[excited whoops] Après vous.
Yeah, bring it in!
Liz, bring it on up!
- Good job team!
- Woo!
At the summit to be able to be with the team that you just kind of fought through these in terms of like the the physical component of it and also the psychological mental battle between am I going to die or am I?
Can I trust the rope?
You know all of that is really powerful.
[excited chatter] People have reasons why they want to do this, and they don't always have to reveal them to me.
But when you get to the summit, it shows how important those reasons were to them.
I think there is like, the competing sadness of that person who I came here to do this with isn't here.
And so this summit, frankly, wa like a bit conflicting for me, where I felt really proud of, like what I accomplished.
But also, you know, again, like my dad wasn't with me.
Brenton sent me a video, texted me a video that he took of her spider walking up this ridge very exposed, dramatic background.
Just, I'm really glad she was able to do it.
Would've been a happier if I was there with her, but really happy that she could do that.
And she really enjoyed the day.
It's really cool to be up here this high out in nature.
Good group, a good group of friends.
Unfortunately, my dad's not up here with me, but the cool thing about mountains is Grand Teton is not going anywhere so we will do it one day I'm sure of it.
Well, what if you don't make the summit of the Grand?
Well, we'll have to plan another trip next year, won't we?
The most rewarding part of guiding.
It always has something to do with the people who I'm with.
That reward comes from seeing the guests and their experience and showing them the mountains that I love, and seeing their reactions and participating in their climb.
- Yeah Bob!
- Yeah BR!
- Sup pops.
- How are you doing buddy?
Feeling good.
Congratulations.
I honestly, as much as I would've liked to summit the fact that I got to spen four days with her one on one, that's worth everything in the world.
The descent is its own kind of climb, but the way bac rarely makes it into the story.
Emotions run high and the climbers walk in silence, spent in searching, still turning over what the mountain gave them.
I was surprised at how overwhelme I was emotionally by this trip.
It wasn't something I was expecting.
I had no anticipation of what I would feel, what it would be like.
I was just going to spend some time with Elizabeth, but there was a very special energy up there on the saddle.
Whether that, you know, relates to Stephen, I don't know, but it's really special and you can't really explain it to someone.
I don't know that everyone would feel it, but maybe that's why I do these things, because you never know what it's going to be like till you get there.
And it's something I'll always remember.
It's a phenomenal memory.
I think, experience like thi really brings people together.
I think it really brings families together.
I can't explain this to other people.
I love the physical exertion.
I love the wind.
I love the storms.
I love the fresh air.
I love the companionship in the outdoors.
I love the change.
I love the rejuvenating spirit.
I love to feel oneness with with nature.
Your senses are really feeling and, I can't explain it.
[Paul laughs] Paul Petzold had a huge influence on my life and a huge beneficial influence on my life.
He helped me become a leader and a a skilled wilderness guide.
And I, owe him for that.
All the things that he has done and all the things that he has touched, he was a legend.
I don't care about being a legend.
I do care, and I'm very pleased when I get letters from really hundreds of people now, I never save them, I never save anything.
But if they say that, gosh, you made a difference in my life.
you made, you really made a big difference in my life and thanks those things I like, but, the legend stuff, I, that doesn't buy any Jack Daniels.
[Paul laughs] We want to thank you for teaching us to climb, for teaching us to survive, for teaching us to eat and do all the wonderful things you have.
But I got to promise you, Paul, from all of us, you've taught us what you really wanted and dreamed to teach us.
You have taught us to teach, and we will.
Thank you, Paul.
No one could ask for more.
Thank you.
In early dawn, in aching cold.
We stopped a moment to behold the sun.
And saw it paint in rainbowed glow.
Endless mountains, ice and snow in Karakoram wind swept on.
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